the other night I was invited to go see a tabla solo performance. It was absolutely pouring rain, cats and dogs, and I wasn't sure where I was going. I took a rickshaw and held my umbrella out over the driver. he got me as far down the main road as he could, and then it was up to me to navigate the Gullis, (alleys). It was dark and now the alleys were rivers. What was neat though was that if I had tried this two weeks ago I probably would have been irritated and terrified of the filthy water, but this night it was more like an adventure. It was fun. I asked people all along the way and always got welcomed smiles and responses like "you know hindi?!"
Part way there I met a small boy with a huge backpack on his shoulders. He said that he would show me how to get there, so I held the umbrella over his head and the flashlight as we waded through ankle deep streams over large cobblestone blocks. We rounded a few corners when the road went down hill a ways. At the bottom, there was a lake easily 3 or 4 feet deep. I asked my 8 year old guide if there was another way to get there and he said "Come on." On the way we passed by his house and he ran in quickly to drop off his bag and then proceeded to take me the rest of the way to the concert - which wasn't that far at that point. When I got there, I thanked him and was so presently surprised that he didn't ask me for money or anything - I think he just really liked the fact that I talked to him. Now I feel like I am starting to "get" this place. It isn't intimidating any more. I can go anywhere find anything, just by asking. Yes it is confusing and filled with twists and turns, but people are always willing to help and it is nice that I have had so many experiences that have not directly resulted in requests for money. It is nice to feel like a human and not a walking wallet (as is usually the case in tourist India).
Inside the concert was held in honor of Ganesh for whom there is a 6 day festival held primarily in Maharashtra. Apparently, the Marathi community of Banaras was sponsoring this event. One thing I did learn is that when they say that it will start at 730, they really mean about 9. When I was leaving at 11pm they told me that there was still another act and invited me to return the next day as well. I asked the nice gentleman what time it would start tomorrow, he said 730. I said, like today? He said. Yes. :)
The concert itself was really good. It was better than most concerts I saw in Lucknow and just as good as many of the concerts I have seen in New York. It was in a small hall so they didn't overblast the microphones as they seemed to do every time I saw live music in Lucknow.
The next day was also great filled with fun conversations at the Tabla Makers' shop and more discussions about music performance with players.
Of course, I knew it couldn't last forever as I woke up this morning with a stomach bug, and forgot that if I touch my refrigerator door barefoot I will get an electric shock. Oh well, now I'm forced to make time to read (and wear sandals)!
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