It's been awhile, so I thought I'd give you some updates.
So I have totally come full circle on my host family. They went from being scared of me to genuinely loving and caring for me in ways that I am so lucky to have. No one else on this program seems to have a living situation with people who are as nice, as generous, and obviously caring about their guests. It's really kind of crazy, but I totally love them now and think that they are among the sweetest people I have met in India.
I like them so much, that when they cleared out one of the other rooms in the house and extended an invitation for another student to come from our program - I immediately suggested that Lars move in - and he has. And he is great. We have a lot of fun. It helps that we are both on the same level in Urdu, so we are working on the same homework assignments and otherwise encourage each other to practice/work, etc.
An example of how cool my family is, is that for the 5 day mid-term break, Lars and I decided to go to a hill station where we could actually spend time outside without melting. before going, they insisted on driving us to the train station (at midnight). Uncle-ji waited with us on the platform for about an hour meeting some of the other students in the program and even picked up one of our traveling companions on the way.... Aunti-ji insisted on sending me off with lots of snacks and food for the train. She even gave me some herbal stuff mixed up in water that helps with upset stomachs. -- The other day, the doxycycline anti-malarial that i have been taking didn't sit particularly well and she gave me a small cup of this stuff and it worked wonders!
I guess it's sort of a combination of all these little things. they want to know that we like the food, they want to know that we are comfortable - and generally are very kind, generous, and helpful.
So now we are in Nanital - a hill station. It was built by the British at some point in the past and has lots of boarding schools and remnants of missionaries and other British dwellings. I can understand why they would have moved up here. It is quite tolerable weather wise. It feels more like Nepal than India.
The town is very much a tourist town - but fortunately, the vast majority of the tourists are Indian. So it doesn't have that overly European feel to it. It's actually kind of fun to hang out with Indians who are on vacation. They rent pedal powered boats and cruise around the lake, or go on walks. there is a big flat empty area in the center of town called "the flats" in the 1880's there was an earthquake or a fire or something and whatever the British built there got destroyed. They decided not to build anything there as a memorial to whatever was there before. The net result is that in this very mountainous area, where flat land is limited, there is a big area for cricket, football, and even basketball courts. The area is full of children and teenagers playing all the time. I just wanted to add to this that the soccer field is gravel. If you ever thought slide tackling looked painful, you never saw it happen on a gravel field. Lars and I have gotten in a few fun games of basketball with the locals and have also enjoyed sitting under the trees near the courts and placing bets on how many layups the little kids will make during their layup drills.... We went to the video arcade and played a rigorous 2 rupee game of Super Mario Bros. 3....
Yesterday morning, we took a cable car to the top of the mountain and then hiked along the ridge line for a few hours. We found some temples, some people set up by the side of the road with telescopes which you could rent for 5 rupees to look around the valley. And perhaps best of all, we found a spot on the road where there didn't appear to be anyone for miles and we could just sit and listen to birds chirping and look at trees. It was a good walk. Later that afternoon, before basketball, we were doing some homework by the b-ball courts and everyone around us was very interested. We are learning how to use Imperfect participles, so I would read out a sentence in English and then we would all try and figure out how to say it in Urdu and then I'd look up the answer. Generally speaking I think the locals and other Indian tourists are completely surprised when we speak Urdu.... One cute family sat down near us, and their children (ages 4 and 6?) came over and touched our feet, which is the ultimate sign of respect in India. It was too cute for words - it almost made me tear up a bit.
The other thing that's nice hear is that the hustling seems to be set on Low rather than high. people approach me constantly asking if I want to go horseback riding or boat riding or whatever, but when I say no thank you - they just walk away. Even the beggars aren't as persistent as they are in other parts of India. Generally speaking, I'd say it's a nice place. Laid back. Today is looking rainy and drizzly, so we have decided to split up and go study all day - to limit the amount of English we speak. It should be good....
As for our other traveling companions, there are 4 undergraduates from our class who came with us - but I am so glad that Lars and I got a different hotel. It's nice to meet up with them for dinner or meals, but getting a group of 6 people to collectively do anything is just way too much - and frankly they are just on a totally different wavelength than we are. I think it helps my sanity a lot that Lars is also in his 30's and married. We are both in very similar situations in that regard.....Most of the other folks in our program are either undergrads or recent graduates and are usually in their early 20s. One guy is actually only 19.... I'm so glad to be removed from that drama.
PS - Lars has a blog about his experience here that has WAY more pictures on it than mine does. I would highly recommend skimming through it, and/or subscribing to it if you are interested. We've done a lot together, so a lot of his pictures represent my experiences here too:
www.lucknowlars.wordpress.com
When I get back to Lucknow I'll try to get some pictures up too....
AND please! drop me a line letting me know how you are doing. I really like that.