Great Piece in the New York Times today about strikes and protests in India. With the Ayodhya decision pending it seems particularly relevant and also reminds me of our wonderful vacation in Darjeeling.
http://www.nytimes.com/2010/09/15/world/asia/15strike.html?_r=1&ref=global-home
Tuesday, September 14, 2010
Kashi Vishvanath Temple
A visiting scholar of architecture and art history is staying here at the guesthouse for 2.5 days. She invited me to tag along to go visit some of the temples and mosques that she was interested in seeing for her research so I thought to myself, why not? When will I ever learn more about this?
the Gyanvapi Mosque and the Kashi Vishvanath Temple are in the same place. There are two doors that go into the compound. One for foreigners and another for everyone else. Or at least that is what it seemed like. We were not allowed in "Door number 1"
We had been told that this was an example of Hindus and Muslims going to the same site to worship and how no one seemed to have a problem with this. I was interested to see this site of potential harmonious public worship especially in light of the pending Ayodhya decision.
In order to get into the temple, we had to declare our Hindu faith in front of several police officers and write down our names and passport numbers in a book. When the first officer asked me if I was a Hindu, a second one replied "he speaks Hindi doesn't he", a third one then asked "WHY do you speak Hindi" I quickly said, "to study religion." only I almost used the Urdu word for religion which would have quickly gotten me thrown out for sure.
I really don't like lying, even to police officers.
that said, it was obvious to all that we were simply tourists when the guy across the tiny alleyway only 3 feet from the police officers was busy selling us drastically over priced offerings and teaching us how to go to the temple and what to do so that we didn't get "caught". As long you pay enough money it is very easy to convince the police that you are whatever religion you need to be that day.
When we get into the temple, it is a zoo. throngs of people are pushing this way and that way to get their Darshan or "divine sight." for many people we could sense the sincere devotion, but the pandits looked at us, knew we didn't know what to do, and began demanding donations by flashing 100 rupee notes at us (at this time I conveniently forgot all my Hindi and didn't understand anything they were saying). One pandit was even talking on his cell phone while blessing us and demanding money - all at the same time!.
One common practice of Hindu devotion is to bring offerings of food to the Gods, which are then blessed and distributed to one's friends and family. We had our little bag of nuts, raisins, coconut, etc. that we were using as our offering, although we almost lost it when Zirawat was attacked by a red faced monkey (everyone knows them to be much more aggressive than the black faced monkeys, albeit smaller in stature). Fortunately she was not clawed or bitten, but was quite startled.
These animals while seemingly cute are remarkably aggressive and surprisingly dangerous. A few years back the deputy mayor of Delhi was killed by them.
As for the peaceful harmony of Hindus and Muslims worshipping together, I haven't seen this many rifles up close since I (foolishly) went to Kashmir back in 2000 to go hiking. The place was surrounded by more than a hundred armed officers and soldiers. The Mosque was surrounded by 6 foot high Iron fence that was topped with razor wire. One felt as if the mosque was in jail or caged like a dangerous animal. I wish that I could have shared some photos with you, but alas that was most certainly forbidden. After being frisked three times on my way in, I felt nothing of the peaceful side by side worshipping experience that had been described to me before hand. I was unnerved by the guns and commercialism that followed my every step through the space. I have no desire to go back.
the Gyanvapi Mosque and the Kashi Vishvanath Temple are in the same place. There are two doors that go into the compound. One for foreigners and another for everyone else. Or at least that is what it seemed like. We were not allowed in "Door number 1"
We had been told that this was an example of Hindus and Muslims going to the same site to worship and how no one seemed to have a problem with this. I was interested to see this site of potential harmonious public worship especially in light of the pending Ayodhya decision.
In order to get into the temple, we had to declare our Hindu faith in front of several police officers and write down our names and passport numbers in a book. When the first officer asked me if I was a Hindu, a second one replied "he speaks Hindi doesn't he", a third one then asked "WHY do you speak Hindi" I quickly said, "to study religion." only I almost used the Urdu word for religion which would have quickly gotten me thrown out for sure.
I really don't like lying, even to police officers.
that said, it was obvious to all that we were simply tourists when the guy across the tiny alleyway only 3 feet from the police officers was busy selling us drastically over priced offerings and teaching us how to go to the temple and what to do so that we didn't get "caught". As long you pay enough money it is very easy to convince the police that you are whatever religion you need to be that day.
When we get into the temple, it is a zoo. throngs of people are pushing this way and that way to get their Darshan or "divine sight." for many people we could sense the sincere devotion, but the pandits looked at us, knew we didn't know what to do, and began demanding donations by flashing 100 rupee notes at us (at this time I conveniently forgot all my Hindi and didn't understand anything they were saying). One pandit was even talking on his cell phone while blessing us and demanding money - all at the same time!.
One common practice of Hindu devotion is to bring offerings of food to the Gods, which are then blessed and distributed to one's friends and family. We had our little bag of nuts, raisins, coconut, etc. that we were using as our offering, although we almost lost it when Zirawat was attacked by a red faced monkey (everyone knows them to be much more aggressive than the black faced monkeys, albeit smaller in stature). Fortunately she was not clawed or bitten, but was quite startled.
These animals while seemingly cute are remarkably aggressive and surprisingly dangerous. A few years back the deputy mayor of Delhi was killed by them.
As for the peaceful harmony of Hindus and Muslims worshipping together, I haven't seen this many rifles up close since I (foolishly) went to Kashmir back in 2000 to go hiking. The place was surrounded by more than a hundred armed officers and soldiers. The Mosque was surrounded by 6 foot high Iron fence that was topped with razor wire. One felt as if the mosque was in jail or caged like a dangerous animal. I wish that I could have shared some photos with you, but alas that was most certainly forbidden. After being frisked three times on my way in, I felt nothing of the peaceful side by side worshipping experience that had been described to me before hand. I was unnerved by the guns and commercialism that followed my every step through the space. I have no desire to go back.
Friday, September 10, 2010
Eid Mubarak Ho!
For those who don't know Eid is officially the end of Ramadan when everyone stops fasting and eats sweets. If you ever wondered about the Islamic Crescent Moon and Star imagery. It's because after fasting for a month everyone is waiting to see this thin sliver of a moon come out.
This year it was perhaps a little thicker than previous year's because everyone expected it last night, but it didn't come out until tonight. You can just see it poking out above the trees.
Here is a picture that really captures how Babu experiences the Eid Fireworks on the rooftop:
Thursday, September 9, 2010
Ayodhya
Ayodhya is the mythic birth place of the Hindu God Ram or Rama who is the primary character in the ancient Sanskrit Epic poem called the Ramayana. (Prounounced "Ramaayan")
However, it is also the former location of the Babri Masjid (or "Babur Mosque") which was built by Babur the first of the Mughal Emperors in the early 1500's.
During the 1980's the Bharatiya Janatiya Party (BJP) a conservative Hindu political party which wished to challenge the preeminence of the Congress Party used Ayodhya as a rallying point for all Hindus. They were assisted by the Telebroadcast of the Ramayan in 1987 which was easily the most watched television program of that decade. I heard stories of people peforming puja to their televisions before the program would come on and that most stores would not open until after it was over (it aired on Sunday mornings).
The attention drawn to this controversial site eventually led to Riots that tore down the 450 year old Mosque in 1992. The BJP and other radical Hindu organization such as the Vishwa Hindu Parishad had sponsored a March to Ayodhya, but at first they claimed no responsibility for the raid that ultimately destroyed the Mosque. Since that time, Kalyan Singh, who was U.P's chief minister at the time has openly accepted responsibility for instigating the riots. He resigned shortly after the incident.
Here is a video of the Mosque being torn down:
Here is the longer version (in Hindi)
Since it was thought that Mosque itself was built out of materials used in an even older Hindu temple, even the pieces of the building have now completely vanished into various individuals homes as holy relics.
Since 1992, a small makeshift temple to Ram has been there, but the Indian Government has not yet decided what should be done to the location. Should they build a Mosque? Should they build a Temple? Both? Neither?
In 2005 five gunmen attacked the makeshift Ram temple and all five were killed in a gunfight - presumably with the military and police forces permanently guarding the site.
The High Court of U.P will announce its verdict on September 24, 2010
As you can imagine, no matter what the verdict is many people are going to be very unhappy about it. Subsequently, in preparation for the announcement security forces are being stepped up all across Uttar Pradesh. They have requested 685 more companies of police officers just for this date. Here in Varanasi, some social workers are trying to organize a peace march for the day BEFORE the announcement to encourage everyone to stay calm after hearing the news. It seems as if the delay in announcing the verdict was deliberate so that the government could prepare itself for what might be a particularly explosive moment in Communal violence in North India.
Of course, no matter what the verdict is, it will be immediately appealed and sent to the Federal Supreme Court - so India is far from finished with Ayodhya. As for the immediate future, it seems as if everyone here is holding their breath waiting to see what will happen two weeks from now....
However, it is also the former location of the Babri Masjid (or "Babur Mosque") which was built by Babur the first of the Mughal Emperors in the early 1500's.
During the 1980's the Bharatiya Janatiya Party (BJP) a conservative Hindu political party which wished to challenge the preeminence of the Congress Party used Ayodhya as a rallying point for all Hindus. They were assisted by the Telebroadcast of the Ramayan in 1987 which was easily the most watched television program of that decade. I heard stories of people peforming puja to their televisions before the program would come on and that most stores would not open until after it was over (it aired on Sunday mornings).
The attention drawn to this controversial site eventually led to Riots that tore down the 450 year old Mosque in 1992. The BJP and other radical Hindu organization such as the Vishwa Hindu Parishad had sponsored a March to Ayodhya, but at first they claimed no responsibility for the raid that ultimately destroyed the Mosque. Since that time, Kalyan Singh, who was U.P's chief minister at the time has openly accepted responsibility for instigating the riots. He resigned shortly after the incident.
Here is a video of the Mosque being torn down:
Here is the longer version (in Hindi)
Since it was thought that Mosque itself was built out of materials used in an even older Hindu temple, even the pieces of the building have now completely vanished into various individuals homes as holy relics.
Since 1992, a small makeshift temple to Ram has been there, but the Indian Government has not yet decided what should be done to the location. Should they build a Mosque? Should they build a Temple? Both? Neither?
In 2005 five gunmen attacked the makeshift Ram temple and all five were killed in a gunfight - presumably with the military and police forces permanently guarding the site.
The High Court of U.P will announce its verdict on September 24, 2010
As you can imagine, no matter what the verdict is many people are going to be very unhappy about it. Subsequently, in preparation for the announcement security forces are being stepped up all across Uttar Pradesh. They have requested 685 more companies of police officers just for this date. Here in Varanasi, some social workers are trying to organize a peace march for the day BEFORE the announcement to encourage everyone to stay calm after hearing the news. It seems as if the delay in announcing the verdict was deliberate so that the government could prepare itself for what might be a particularly explosive moment in Communal violence in North India.
Of course, no matter what the verdict is, it will be immediately appealed and sent to the Federal Supreme Court - so India is far from finished with Ayodhya. As for the immediate future, it seems as if everyone here is holding their breath waiting to see what will happen two weeks from now....
Guest Blogger Allen: Jump Rope
So while I beat the heat and wait for Ramadan and Eid to end before really diving into my fieldwork I have spent the last few days reviewing and taking notes on interviews I recorded last year. It's really amazing how much my language skills have improved! It kind of inspires me and gives me hope that I can pull this whole dissertation thing off.
In the mean time I have started an exercise regime to try not to waste away like I did last year. I started in July with 20 push-ups and sit ups each day, then August it was 30 and now we're in September so it's 40. At this rate, I should be really cranking them out by next summer!
I decided to add to this regime a jump rope. Which I must say was surprisingly difficult at first. for the first few days I couldn't get more than 50 jumps in before tripping myself up. But today, I got 164 and am quite proud of it. Now that Nikki isn't blogging the pressure is on to pick up where she left off - we'll see how well that works.
more soon.
allen
In the mean time I have started an exercise regime to try not to waste away like I did last year. I started in July with 20 push-ups and sit ups each day, then August it was 30 and now we're in September so it's 40. At this rate, I should be really cranking them out by next summer!
I decided to add to this regime a jump rope. Which I must say was surprisingly difficult at first. for the first few days I couldn't get more than 50 jumps in before tripping myself up. But today, I got 164 and am quite proud of it. Now that Nikki isn't blogging the pressure is on to pick up where she left off - we'll see how well that works.
more soon.
allen
Tuesday, September 7, 2010
The hills are alive...
... with the sound of one-on-one Hindi lessons......!
I'm in cool, rainy, wonderul Mussoorie!! Poor Allen is still stuck in hot, sweaty, sticky Varanasi!
(giggle)
I'm up here to go to the Landour Language School - work on my Hindi while trying to escape the heat (and subsequent heat rash and eczema). One of the wonderful things (depending I guess on how you look at it) is that I feel totally disconnected from anything up here. There is no internet at the guest house I'm staying at or at the school where I spend most of my time. Who needs Google Reader when the mountains are staring you right in the face! Who needs email when you can just sit in your room and think (or nap) for hours on end!
So, I'm warning you in advance that you might not hear much from me while I'm up here. So Allen will be the lead blogger for a while ....
......
So...... you may not hear from both of us for a month or so, but rest assured that we're having fun and having plenty of adventures - that I'll be sure to update you all about when I get back.
:)
I'm in cool, rainy, wonderul Mussoorie!! Poor Allen is still stuck in hot, sweaty, sticky Varanasi!
(giggle)
I'm up here to go to the Landour Language School - work on my Hindi while trying to escape the heat (and subsequent heat rash and eczema). One of the wonderful things (depending I guess on how you look at it) is that I feel totally disconnected from anything up here. There is no internet at the guest house I'm staying at or at the school where I spend most of my time. Who needs Google Reader when the mountains are staring you right in the face! Who needs email when you can just sit in your room and think (or nap) for hours on end!
So, I'm warning you in advance that you might not hear much from me while I'm up here. So Allen will be the lead blogger for a while ....
......
So...... you may not hear from both of us for a month or so, but rest assured that we're having fun and having plenty of adventures - that I'll be sure to update you all about when I get back.
:)
Thursday, September 2, 2010
Varanasi Ho!
Loading up and moving outEarly Tuesday morning, Allen and I packed up all our worldly possessions from Lucknow and took the 5+ hour drive out to Varanasi to begin his PhD fieldwork. We were totally floored by how much crap we had collected over the last year in Lucknow - though somehow it all seems so indispensable ("But I don't want to have to repurchase all the kitchen-wear or buy new buckets for hand washing clothes!") .... Seems like a moot complaint I guess coming from the US, but then we remembered that each extra item we might have to repurchase would require its own special outing ... and well .... we caved and tried to take as much as we could possibly cram into the car.
I gotta say, I think my dad would have been incredibly proud of Allen's packing job (and that's saying a lot). As it was, everyone at the institute (where we had stashed our stuff over the summer) and even the driver were amazed that we managed to get everything in.So we made it safe and sound with our washing buckets in tow. Our new little flat is cheery and completely welcoming of all the crap we have to fill it.
Varanasi is in the throws of monsoon heat - with its contingent power-outages .... but also surprisingly water outages too! Our host have warned us that things will get much worse after the local elections (just trying to butter up the constituencies ahead of time).
Groan.
But I'll be in the mountains of Mussoorie soon enough - leaving poor Allen to fend for himself in the heat.
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